Bluing iron and steel quickly and easily yourself

Our range of immersion and rapid burnishing products is a real alternative to so-called "black burnishing" (hot burnishing). Chemical bluing can be used in many ways and is now firmly established in many disciplines, such as metal construction, steel construction, forging, restoration, interior decoration and weapon care. The effort of a cold burnishing is extremely low compared to a "hot burnishing" and the results of our products speak for themselves.

The benefits of burnishing

Easy DIY application
For steel, iron, cast iron and zinc
Price-performance ratio
Reduces corrosion
Creates even blackening
Converts surface into oxide layer

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Simple application

No special or previous knowledge is required for the application of our bluing products. Besides cloth, brush and tub and, if necessary, protective equipment, no other accessories are needed. After careful application, a black, visually appealing and corrosion-reduced surface forms on the burnished object.

Burnish surfaces yourself

With the help of our products for rapid and/or immersion bluing, low-alloy steels with a chromium content of up to 3% can be easily blackened by the user. The DIY application is possible for larger surfaces as well as for repairing damaged burnishing or for small parts.

Flexible fields of application

Our bluing liquids are versatile. Immersion bluing is particularly suitable for creating blackening on movable parts, while bluing with a brush is used for fixed parts. Possible applications range from metalworking to (weapon) restoration and care.

The right process for every application field of bluing

Handicraft and metalworking

Restoration and interior design

Weapon care

How to achieve a perfect immersion bluing with the "Black Devil" set.

The process of our Black Devil bluing set is optimised to give you consistently good results when blackening larger objects by immersion/dipping. This is achieved primarily through the supplementary set components for pre- and post-treatment of the given workpiece. The essential process steps are as follows:

DEGREASING: Thoroughly degrease the item to be blackened with component I. Cleans from smear traces and grease residues that would impair the bluing result.

CONDITIONING: Treat the workpiece with component II after drying. This accelerates the bluing process and ensures a better result due to the surface activation.

BLUING: Immerse object in component III for the respective duration indicated. Blackens the surface evenly and protects the steel surface. Repeat step, if necessary.

OILING: Soaking in component IV serves to displace water from the blued object and and to seal the bluing layer. In addition, residues of water and bluing fluid are removed.

Between all steps, we always recommend rinsing in distilled water to avoid carry-over effects. You will find detailed information in our application instructions.

Subsequently blacken immovable parts or repair existing blued surfaces with "Black Magic" quick bluing solution

In contrast to the Black Devil system, the highly concentrated Black Magic burnishing solution is used to selectively re-blue small areas or to repair damaged bluing. Of course, smaller parts can also be completely blackened with the quick burnishing - the application is done by brushing it onto the surface. The application steps are essentially the same as those of the Black Devil system.

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Subsequently blacken immovable parts or repair existing blued surfaces with "Black Magic" quick bluing solution

Blackening aluminium and stainless steel - set up for every metal with our most recent bluing liquids!

For a long time it was only possible to chemically blacken mild steel, low-alloy steels and steels with up to 12 % chromium content. We have done intensive research for you over the last 5 years so that you can now also effectively blacken aluminium and stainless steel! This means that decorative room elements made of the most common materials can now also be effectively blued.

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Frequently asked questions

How much corrosion protection does chemical bluing offer?

Our bluing agents primarily create a black coloured surface that is not a real coating but inhibits the existing surface of steel, stainless steel or aluminium. Corrosion protection is only achieved if the blackened layer is oiled or painted at the end.

Why does my workpiece rust after the bluing process?

This is most likely because the remnants of the bluing agent have not been rinsed off cleanly enough. This causes components of the bluing to crystallise on the surface and form a reddish-brown layer that looks like rust. Make sure that residues of the bluing liquid are completely removed at the beginning and end and that the surface is clean. Repeat the blackening process and wash off the bluing chemical carefully and completely at the end!

My bluing layer does not last. What can I do?

If the blackened layer does not last, there are several options.

1. If the surface is nano-coated or covered with an invisible clear varnish, this layer must be removed so that the bluing liquid can adhere.

2. The surface may be made of an incompatible material.

3. The pre-treatment may not have been carried out thoroughly enough. Bluing will only work on a clean surface, free of dust, dirt and other contaminants.

4. The bluing agent may have been too concentrated. Depending on the product, you may dare to dilute it with water.

Which materials can be blued?

Our product range currently allows us to burnish the following materials: Iron, steel, zinc, aluminium and various non-ferrous metals. Check the product detail page for compatibility with the material you have.