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Create artificial ageing effects on non-ferrous metals and silver - Our patina effects.

Create artificial ageing effects on non-ferrous metals and silver - Our patina effects.

With the help of our patinas, you can create impressive ageing effects and colours on surfaces made of copper, brass, bronze or silver. The results achieved range from blue patina to iridescent colouring - depending on the material, duration of effect and application technique. Effective shades can be achieved on silver, the intensity of which can in turn be reworked by polishing. In this way, you can create impressive ageing effects that take a long time to achieve naturally, as well as 3D effects, light-and-shadow effects or relief depths. Our patinations are therefore widely used in arts and crafts, restoration, jewellery finishing, coin processing and electroforming.

Why patinate objects?

  • Simple DIY application
  • For copper, bronze, brass and silver
  • Price-performance ratio
  • Diverse colour effects for art objects
  • Uniform ageing effects
  • Can be combined with each other

Easy to use

No special previous knowledge is required for the application of our patination liquids. Apart from cloth, brush and tub and protective equipment (goggles and gloves), no other accessories are needed. After careful application, you will obtain visually appealing, patinated surfaces with impressive effects on the so-called non-ferrous metals (copper, brass and bronze) and additionally silver.

Patinate surfaces yourself

With the help of blue patination, silver patination and our classic patination, copper, brass, bronze or silver can be patinated in a simple way. Different effects can be created by dipping or brushing and for different lengths of time, which can be combined with each other. Our silver patination makes it possible to create shading effects on silver surfaces.

Flexible fields of application

Our patinas are versatile and can be used in a wide variety of application fields, such as art, crafts, jewellery refining, electroforming and restoration. The dilutability of the patination ensures a wide variety of effects. The patination concentrates can be applied by dipping or brushing on. Only use acid-resistant tools for processing our fluids.

Patination on copper, brass and bronze - creating iridescent colours

With the help of our classic patination, you can easily and quickly create coloured nuances on surfaces made of copper, brass or bronze, which can be varied or combined depending on the application technique, duration of effect and material. The patination liquid can be diluted - depending on the dilution, different effects can be created again. As with all surface treatment processes, it is important to have a clean, grease- and dust-free surface in front of you before patinating. Here you can find some example applications. The patinations shown are to be understood as a guide - please note that the colours may differ depending on the alloy and processing.



These discs of copper were dipped into the patination for the duration mentioned. On pure copper, the material first turns reddish to dark red. With a longer exposure time, this colouring finally changes to bluish shades of various gradations, before the patination on pure copper finally reaches a shimmering greyish colour after approx. 4 minutes. The patination treatment can be stopped at any time to maintain the desired colour result. To do this, the patination must be rinsed off without leaving any residue at the right time. When patinating, pay attention to the correct pre- and post-treatment of the surface!


The application of patination on bronze plates behaves similarly to copper patination. Differences, if any, only appear after an application time of less than 1 min or more than 4 min. With both times, rather brownish shades can be seen. Please note that bronze is an alloy of copper and tin - the expression of the patina effects varies greatly depending on the composition of the alloy. To preserve the desired effect, simply rinse off the patina solution.


These colour effects can be achieved after immersing brass in patination solution diluted 1:5. Especially with brass, however, there are some different alloy compositions. Our test plates are made of Ms63, i.e. 63% copper and 37% zinc, and serve only as a guide.

The classic patination in brush application - rainbow-like colour effects

In contrast to the application as immersion patination, the patination concentrate can also be brushed on. Depending on the method of application, impressive and very different effects can be achieved with the stain. In the attached examples, clear differences can be seen between a 3 minute working time and 1:5 dilution on copper and a 3 minute working time with 1:5 dilution on bronze. Some areas become bluer, the less coated areas reddish-brown. The uniform blue colouring in example 2 results from the homogeneous, even distribution of the patination.

Patinate copper blue - Antique finish for objects made of copper, bronze or brass.

Our blue patination has been developed for the purpose of artificially patinating copper, bronze and brass "blue". The results vary in colour depth and expression from turquoise blue to light blue to greenish tones. If you want a calculable result, it is best to test the blue patination on an inconspicuous area beforehand. Keep in mind that the result always depends on the workmanship, quality and composition of the alloy. Blue patination is intended for decorative indoor use - for outdoor use, the surface MUST be preserved afterwards, e.g. with clear lacquer spray or similar, as the surface will continue to oxidise or patinate. The blue patination can be combined with our black patination. In addition, we have also provided for the case that you do not have a copper, brass or bronze surface in front of you: with the help of our bronze effect paint, you can create a bronze layer on your object beforehand, which you can then age artificially. The bronze paint is available individually or as a set including patinations. Of course, galvanically copper-plated surfaces can also be treated with our patination liquids.

Patinating brooches, rings, necklaces, coins and jewellery made of silver and sterling - Creating effective shades

With the help of silver patination, you are able to blacken silver on your own in a flash. But why should you even blacken silver? By blackening, you can create an antique look on the target object, such as jewellery, rings or brooches. Furthermore, on objects with relief, such as coins or rings, much more depth can be achieved optically. The silver object is either completely immersed in the liquid or blackened with the help of acid-resistant materials (brush or sponge). On art objects with reliefs or recesses, the excess patination can then be sanded or polished away again to create optical depth, 3D effects and impressive plays of light and shadow, depending on the intended use. Silver patination is highly effective, particularly productive and the blackening effect is permanent. In addition, there is no annoying odour during the process as with other liquids, such as sulphur liver, which are also used to oxidise silver.

Frequently asked questions about patination

Aluminium and titanium are suitable for anodising. We recommend our products exclusively for aluminium.

Our products cover the majority of the most common aluminium alloys. However, the industry is constantly evolving. For an overview table of compositions suitable for anodising, please see our anodising guide.

In this case, the concentration of the colour solution is not high enough. We recommend 10g/L. Also possible: the alloy is not or only insufficiently suitable for anodising. You can find an overview table on this in our instructions for anodising.

When anodising, the surface area of the workpiece is calculated in dm² and multiplied by 1.5. This gives the necessary amperage for your project. As soon as you set this on your machine, the voltage regulates itself automatically.

No. Only the aluminium piece and titanium wire may be immersed in the solution with the anodising bath. The alligator clips must not come into contact with the bath.

Our bluing agents primarily create a black coloured surface that is not a real coating but inhibits the existing surface of steel, stainless steel or aluminium. Corrosion protection is only achieved if the blackened layer is oiled or painted at the end.

This is most likely because the remnants of the bluing agent have not been rinsed off cleanly enough. This causes components of the bluing to crystallise on the surface and form a reddish-brown layer that looks like rust. Make sure that residues of the bluing liquid are completely removed at the beginning and end and that the surface is clean. Repeat the blackening process and wash off the bluing chemical carefully and completely at the end!

If the blackened layer does not last, there are several options. 
1. If the surface is nano-coated or covered with an invisible clear varnish, this layer must be removed so that the bluing liquid can adhere.
2. The surface may be made of an incompatible material. 
3. The pre-treatment may not have been carried out thoroughly enough. Bluing will only work on a clean surface, free of dust, dirt and other contaminants. 
4. The bluing agent may have been too concentrated. Depending on the product, you may dare to dilute it with water.

Our product range currently allows us to burnish the following materials: Iron, steel, zinc, aluminium and various non-ferrous metals. Check the product detail page for compatibility with the material you have.

If the patination does not last, there are several options. 
1. If the surface is nano-coated or covered with an invisible clear varnish, this layer must be removed so that the patination can adhere. 
2. The surface may be made of an incompatible material. 
3. The pre-treatment may not have been carried out thoroughly enough. The patination will only work on a clean surface, free of dust, dirt and other contaminants. 
4. The patination may have been too concentrated. Depending on the product, you may dare to dilute with water.

You have to multiply the current density recommended for the respective electrolyte by the surface area of the workpiece in dm² and then get the required current intensity. The voltage will readjust when the current is set accordingly.

This varies from electrolyte to electrolyte. If the anodes are made of the same material as the salt in the electrolyte solution (e.g. copper, nickel, silver, zinc), the salt content remains constant because the anode dissolves slowly but steadily. However, the electrolyte is still contaminated at some point and brighteners (if present) are used up.

Certain electrolytes can be diluted. The gold electrolytes Flash and Midas can be diluted in a ratio of up to 1:1. However, the speed of deposition and the shine then decrease rapidly.

The anodes should be at least as large as the surface of the object to be coated. The supply of 2 anodes (left and right) has been proven to give better results.

If you want to coat from both sides at the same time, you should place an anode in the tank on each side and place the workpiece in the middle. The deposition is then more uniform than with the method with only one anode.

The depletion of the electrolyte can be recognised by the slowing deposition. The colouring of the gold electrolyte Midas, for example, does not indicate that the electrolyte has been used up.

For gold and palladium: stainless steel or graphite. For copper (basic and acidic): Copper. For nickel electrolyte: nickel. For silver electrolyte: silver. For zinc electrolyte: zinc. For chrome electrolyte: not compatible with bath electroplating.

No, unfortunately that is not possible. Our chrome electrolyte only works in conjunction with the brush process (tampon electroplating).

Yes, this is possible with the help of our conductive copper varnish. The object is sprayed or brushed with copper conductive paint or copper conductive lacquer spray, which first creates a metallic layer. The object is then given its final conductivity in a galvanic bath with acidic bright copper electrolyte. This creates a continuous, conductive copper layer that can then be further treated like any other copper layer, e.g. by silver plating.

Rust Piranha can normally be painted over or treated further. However, please check on an inconspicuous spot whether the rust converter is compatible with your paint colour.

Our products for electroless silver plating only deposit on copper and brass as a base, as the products can only deposit silver with these materials. Accordingly, the products for electroless silver plating can NOT be deposited on silver. If copper or brass are coated, a thin silver layer of 200 - 300 nm is produced, which is intended for decorative purposes only. If you want a thicker silver layer on your object, the only process left is electroplating!

No, unfortunately that is not possible with these products.

In principle, it is possible to gold-plate some aluminium alloys with the Gold Star, but so far this only works with a few compositions. The success of the application can therefore not be guaranteed for all aluminium alloys.

The zinc object must be clean and free of residues such as dirt, oil or particles. The object is then degreased, e.g. with the TIFOO Galvano Degreaser. Depending on the size, the object is immersed in the yellow chromate for a few minutes. 3 minutes is a good guideline.