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You want to blacken your weapon? Our chemical products suit perfectly.

Our cold bluing products combine a low application effort with optimal results. They make it possible to bluing your weapon parts without leaving any residues or stains and to permanently repair damaged bluing. In addition to the blackening of the metal, the bluing provides long-term corrosion reduction. In the process, the bluing creates an abrasion-resistant and durable protective layer on long and short guns (with steels up to 12% chrome content) - thus saving time and money.

Weapon bluing – A proven method

Gun bluing is a method used for decades to aesthetically upcycle and improves the durability of firearms. During the bluing process, a stable, black oxide layer is formed that protects the metal and reduces wear. In addition, this creates a blackening effect that can restore the aesthetic appeal you have for your long or short gun. Tifoo's cold bluing process is very easy and flexible to use and is a method of surface protection that is as inexpensive as it is effective.

What opportuninies do we offer you?

Our "Black Magic" brush-on bluing is perfectly suited for gun bluing. With it, you can easily touch up damaged bluing on weapons by applying it with a brush or sponge. Alternatively, you can use our Black Devil immersion bluing to completely blacken previously removed steel and iron parts after conditioning in the bath. If necessary, our stainless steel bluing can now also be used to blacken stainless steel. In all cases, the gun parts must be cleaned and degreased beforehand and finally preserved with burnishing oil.

Frequently asked questions

Aluminium and titanium are suitable for anodising. We recommend our products exclusively for aluminium.

Our products cover the majority of the most common aluminium alloys. However, the industry is constantly evolving. For an overview table of compositions suitable for anodising, please see our anodising guide.

In this case, the concentration of the colour solution is not high enough. We recommend 10g/L. Also possible: the alloy is not or only insufficiently suitable for anodising. You can find an overview table on this in our instructions for anodising.

When anodising, the surface area of the workpiece is calculated in dm² and multiplied by 1.5. This gives the necessary amperage for your project. As soon as you set this on your machine, the voltage regulates itself automatically.

No. Only the aluminium piece and titanium wire may be immersed in the solution with the anodising bath. The alligator clips must not come into contact with the bath.

Our bluing agents primarily create a black coloured surface that is not a real coating but inhibits the existing surface of steel, stainless steel or aluminium. Corrosion protection is only achieved if the blackened layer is oiled or painted at the end.

This is most likely because the remnants of the bluing agent have not been rinsed off cleanly enough. This causes components of the bluing to crystallise on the surface and form a reddish-brown layer that looks like rust. Make sure that residues of the bluing liquid are completely removed at the beginning and end and that the surface is clean. Repeat the blackening process and wash off the bluing chemical carefully and completely at the end!

If the blackened layer does not last, there are several options. 
1. If the surface is nano-coated or covered with an invisible clear varnish, this layer must be removed so that the bluing liquid can adhere.
2. The surface may be made of an incompatible material. 
3. The pre-treatment may not have been carried out thoroughly enough. Bluing will only work on a clean surface, free of dust, dirt and other contaminants. 
4. The bluing agent may have been too concentrated. Depending on the product, you may dare to dilute it with water.

Our product range currently allows us to burnish the following materials: Iron, steel, zinc, aluminium and various non-ferrous metals. Check the product detail page for compatibility with the material you have.

If the patination does not last, there are several options. 
1. If the surface is nano-coated or covered with an invisible clear varnish, this layer must be removed so that the patination can adhere. 
2. The surface may be made of an incompatible material. 
3. The pre-treatment may not have been carried out thoroughly enough. The patination will only work on a clean surface, free of dust, dirt and other contaminants. 
4. The patination may have been too concentrated. Depending on the product, you may dare to dilute with water.

You have to multiply the current density recommended for the respective electrolyte by the surface area of the workpiece in dm² and then get the required current intensity. The voltage will readjust when the current is set accordingly.

This varies from electrolyte to electrolyte. If the anodes are made of the same material as the salt in the electrolyte solution (e.g. copper, nickel, silver, zinc), the salt content remains constant because the anode dissolves slowly but steadily. However, the electrolyte is still contaminated at some point and brighteners (if present) are used up.

Certain electrolytes can be diluted. The gold electrolytes Flash and Midas can be diluted in a ratio of up to 1:1. However, the speed of deposition and the shine then decrease rapidly.

The anodes should be at least as large as the surface of the object to be coated. The supply of 2 anodes (left and right) has been proven to give better results.

If you want to coat from both sides at the same time, you should place an anode in the tank on each side and place the workpiece in the middle. The deposition is then more uniform than with the method with only one anode.

The depletion of the electrolyte can be recognised by the slowing deposition. The colouring of the gold electrolyte Midas, for example, does not indicate that the electrolyte has been used up.

For gold and palladium: stainless steel or graphite. For copper (basic and acidic): Copper. For nickel electrolyte: nickel. For silver electrolyte: silver. For zinc electrolyte: zinc. For chrome electrolyte: not compatible with bath electroplating.

No, unfortunately that is not possible. Our chrome electrolyte only works in conjunction with the brush process (tampon electroplating).

Yes, this is possible with the help of our conductive copper varnish. The object is sprayed or brushed with copper conductive paint or copper conductive lacquer spray, which first creates a metallic layer. The object is then given its final conductivity in a galvanic bath with acidic bright copper electrolyte. This creates a continuous, conductive copper layer that can then be further treated like any other copper layer, e.g. by silver plating.

Rust Piranha can normally be painted over or treated further. However, please check on an inconspicuous spot whether the rust converter is compatible with your paint colour.

Our products for electroless silver plating only deposit on copper and brass as a base, as the products can only deposit silver with these materials. Accordingly, the products for electroless silver plating can NOT be deposited on silver. If copper or brass are coated, a thin silver layer of 200 - 300 nm is produced, which is intended for decorative purposes only. If you want a thicker silver layer on your object, the only process left is electroplating!

No, unfortunately that is not possible with these products.

In principle, it is possible to gold-plate some aluminium alloys with the Gold Star, but so far this only works with a few compositions. The success of the application can therefore not be guaranteed for all aluminium alloys.

The zinc object must be clean and free of residues such as dirt, oil or particles. The object is then degreased, e.g. with the TIFOO Galvano Degreaser. Depending on the size, the object is immersed in the yellow chromate for a few minutes. 3 minutes is a good guideline.